As soon as we arrived at Hotel Baru, we were greeted by Supriyada, or Supri, a guide, who quickly stepped in to help us resolve the matter of a cracked window in our taxi. To prevent any incidences of ugly Americanism, we gladly paid the $15 to repair the window and everyone left happy. We walked away smiling but confused because we didn't remember being that destructive. Then again, we're big boned compared to Indonesians and don't fit too easily inside their vehicles. Once that was over and done, we asked Supri about the hike to Ijen. He said that he could arrange it no problem and then he went on to tell us that he could also show us around his village and take us to the deserted Sukamade beach and the leatherback turtle hatchery. Our plans to stay just one night in Bangyuwangi quickly changed.
Our first full day in Banyuwangi was spent touring Supri's village. What I thought was an alleyway off of a main road was actually the entrance to his village, a maze of houses and little shops. As we enjoyed a traditional meal, Supri explained that Indonesians like sweet food and colorful homes and that they don't smile in pictures. We found all three to be true.
I think it could use a little more purple, don't you?
Everything on this plate was sweet and delicious! Our favorite was the black rice.
They smiled before the picture and after the picture, but we couldn't get them to smile for the picture.
The next stop was at the home of one of Indonesia's best and award winning dancers, who not only designs and makes the costumes for Indonesia's version of Carnival and various festivals, but does all the choreography, too. His costumes were exquisite, some weighing up to 60 kilos (132 pounds). We were fortunate enough to get to try some of them on and hang out in his workshop where he told us stories about his visits to other countries, including North Korea. When Brian asked him if the North Koreans liked his dancing and costumes, he replied that his performance brought people together and that was the most important thing. Pretty remarkable insight.
This is just part of the costume. The whole ensemble weighs more than I do.
Brian donning the crown for the king's costume.
Playing dress up is for big kids, too.
Ta-da!
Then it was off to Banyuwangi's black sand beach. The sand on these types of beaches is made of tiny fragments of lava, hence black sand beaches are always found near volcanoes (Indonesia has and has had more volcanoes and more volcanic activity than any other country). Black sand beaches aren't all that common and so they tend to be big tourist attractions. However, this one is essentially deserted. Supri's vision is to start an eco-tourism project that involves cleaning up the beach and putting Banyuwangi on the map.
A traditional fishing boat we passed on the walk to the beach.
Some kids we passed along the way. Potato guns are cool. And so are big white guys with beards.
Learning about Supri's dream.
Looking out at Bali from the black sand beach.
Our last stop for the day was the English Learning Center where Supri learned to speak English. He was one of the first students there along with 6 others back in 1986. Today there are more than 500 students. One of the reasons for the increase in students is that the Indonesian government now requires employees to speak English. We got to visit with one of the classes and had a blast hanging out with the kids.
One of the name tags at the ELC. Pure coincidence.
Chatting it up with Udo. His birthday is May 9th and his favorite color is blue.
Posing with students for an ELC ad. It's not every day they get to speak American English with real live 'Muricans.
As Brian and I went to bed that night at the terribly late hour of 7 (we had to get up at midnight to leave for Mt. Ijen, an adventure we'll share this adventure in part 2!), we were both certain that the Lonely Planet staff hadn't met Supri when they visited this gem of a city.
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